Anthony D. Covington, professor emeritus of leather science, highlights in Tanning Chemistry: The Science of Leather that leather is ideal for shoes because it repels water while allowing air and moisture to pass through. However, to retain these properties, leather requires proper care—just like your skin. Regular cleaning, moisturizing, and occasional touch-ups are essential to maintaining its durability and appearance.
Even if you don’t have the budget or time for regular shoe shining, adopting simple habits for passive care can go a long way. With minimal effort and no special equipment, you can keep your leather shoes in great condition for years to come.
Always use a shoe horn when putting on your shoes to prevent unnecessary stress on the heel counter, which maintains the shoe’s structure and supports your heel. If you don’t have a shoe horn, a credit card or driver’s license can work in a pinch—just avoid forcing your feet in, as it can damage the shoe over time.
Ideally, you should have at least two pairs of shoes to rotate between, allowing each pair to dry fully between wears. This helps extend their lifespan by preventing moisture buildup. The Art of Manliness emphasizes that rotation is key—using cedar shoe trees while your shoes rest helps absorb moisture and reshape the leather, significantly increasing their durability.
"So long as you get [a shoe tree] that fits well in your shoe and is made out of some sort of wood, it’s going to do the trick, plain and simple." —Justin Fitzpatrick, The Shoe Snob Blog
When it comes to shoe trees, using them is more important than the specific type you buy. As Justin Fitzpatrick of The Shoe Snob Blog points out, shoe trees are one of the most essential accessories for leather shoes. As long as they fit well and are made of wood, they will help maintain the shape of your shoes and absorb moisture, keeping them in top condition.
After researching various options, we found that Nordstrom’s store-brand Cedar Shoe Trees receive widespread praise. They meet all the criteria for a great shoe tree: made entirely of aromatic cedar, available in seven sizes for a perfect fit, and crafted in the USA. For shoes priced over $300, investing in custom shoe trees from Hanger Project or a local boutique might be worthwhile. However, for most leather shoes, Nordstrom’s affordable option provides excellent value and performance.
Most likely, your shoes came with a shoe bag. If you wear them frequently—at least once a week—keeping them in the bag isn’t necessary. However, for shoes that are worn less often or need seasonal storage, placing them in the shoe bag (with shoe trees inside) helps protect them from dust and keeps them in great shape. If you don’t have a shoe bag, a canvas tote bag is a good alternative. Avoid plastic bags like Ziplocs, as they trap moisture and can encourage mold growth.
Pay extra attention to your shoes when the weather is poor. If it’s particularly wet outside, consider skipping your leather shoes for the day. Waterlogged leather—often swollen and darkened from absorbing moisture—loses its natural oils as it dries, making it more prone to brittleness and cracking. The same caution applies in snowy conditions, where the mix of wet snow and road salt can significantly reduce the lifespan of your shoes.
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